Angela Muir (and Hilary Reid-Evans) had gone to considerable trouble to bring this topic alive for members at a tasting which was unique in the Club’s history, and to quote Angela, at the cutting edge of wine knowledge.
Angela’s enthusiasm for this geographic area had been whetted by a previous experience in the former Czech Republic. The break-up of Yugoslavia and wine making’s slow and painful recovery from the effects of collectivisation have fascinated Angela for over 20 years. In the immediate aftermath of the collapse of communism the wines of Yugoslavia were known for nothing more than their £3.99 price point. The ‘long rows’ of the collective farms that ignored local knowledge and local terroir still have an impact in countries such as Slovakia, Slovenia and Macedonia, but the recovery is well under way. After the somewhat piecemeal return of vineyards to private ownership during the 1990’s, a large number of small and enthusiastic wine producers have emerged, who are now producing wine of increased quality from their replanted and now mature vines. Cooperatives continue to exist alongside this substantially ‘garagist’ sector and in many, if not all, cases the quality levels here have improved exponentially. An enthusiastic local demand and limited supply keeps wine prices high, and the availability of good quality wines for export low, with these factors plus the cost of transportation rather unfortunately positioning the wines of this area in a largely uncompetitive price/quality position versus other wine producing territories. For this reason, the import of wines from the former Yugoslavia is generally confined to a band of enthusiastic independent importers, with the usual honourable exception of Waitrose, whose current list features one wine from Slovenia and another from Kosovo.
Angela’s tasting focused on the differing topographies of the coastal strip, which is largely touristic and runs down towards Dubrovnik, and the inland river and mountainous regions and on the local grapes, of which there are reputedly over 600, as opposed to the ‘international’ varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, that have been grown in the region for generations.
The wines were tasted in three flights of four, topped off by a separately served glass of Eiswein to finish off the evening.
The first four wines were all whites, the first two from more inland and the second two from near the Italian/Slovenian border.
1) Radgonska Ranina 2010, Steyer, £8.98
Ranina is an old and rare grape, planted in tiny amounts, but growing in popularity, from the North East of Slovenia, just east of Maribor. Until recently, the limited quantities were largely used by sparkling wine producers. The climate in the area of production, which lies between the Mura and Scainca rivers, is somewhat alpine, producing a clean and fresh white wine, pale lemon in colour, moderate intensity with floral notes accenting citrus and some ginger flavours and crisp acidity. Perfect for fritto misto!
2) Sipon, Dveri Pax, 2009, £9.85
Sipon (pronounced Shippon) also comes from the area, near Maribor and in the Jeruzalem Hills. The grape is better known to us as Furmint, the Tokay grape, although it was once known as Mosel in this area. But, just as Tokay producers are discovering, to support the slow vinifying, long-ageing wines of classic Tokay and Tokay look-alikes, you need the ready cash from wines sold young for early consumption. Hence the development of wines such as this. The grape has been well-handled by a long-established Austrian monastic vineyard which has been rebuilt in the last ten years, and produced by their smart young wine maker. This elegant, unoaked example was pale lemon with a clean but broad nose, somewhat spicy with a touch of sweetness, plus a greater depth and richness and a longer richer finish than the Ranina.
3) Rumena Rubula 2010, Scurek, £9.98
The Rumena Rebula (better known to most of us as Italy’s Ribolla Giallo) was softer with a touch of honey and butterscotch, fuller in body but perhaps less fruit in the mouth than on the nose. This is, as Angela frankly admitted, a wine produced from a ‘mass’ grape and from a difficult vintage. Local producers have identified the trick of maceration to add flavour. This introduces tannins from the skin and some producers take this to extremes resulting in unpleasant bitterness in an already acidic wine.
4) Sauvignonasse 2009, Scurek, £9.98
Last of the first flight was the Sauvignonase, deeper gold in colour with a honeyed, slightly spicy nose and citrus flavours that finished with a bitter twist, again a product of the maceration technique. Tasted young, Angela explained that it can take around 4 years for the tannins to soften, with commercial consequences for the producer. Sauvignonasse (or Sauvignon Vert) used to be known as Tokay Friulano but the producers of ‘real’ Tokay have ensured this name is no longer used.
The second flight comprised two Malvazijas from 2009, a Plantazw Krstac and lastly a Grasevina.
Malvazija is of course identifiable as Malvasia but the other two were new to most of the members present. Prices for this flight were higher (bar the Krstac) and this was reflected by a generally greater depth and range of aromas and flavours.
5) Coronica Malvazija Istarska, 2009, £11.76 and 6) Coronica Gran Malvazija, 2008, £15.36
The two Malvazijas were both from Coronica, and produced by the same wine maker, from grapes grown near the Croatian coast, in an area where Chardonnay also produces well. Malvazija / Malvasia is widely grown right throughout the Adriatic region, though all the producers believe theirs is a ‘unique’ variety. There were two styles illustrated here – the fresher standard wine and the more oak-influenced, macerated ‘grand’ wine. The first was pale gold, the second a deeper colour with even a hint of amber. The oak influence was apparent on the Gran Coronica – a full-bodied wine with honey and vanilla and tree fruit on the nose and a touch of apricot on the mouth. This second wine had been ‘macerated, with bells and whistles’ according to Angela!
7) Plantazw Crnogoski Krstac, 2009, £8.99
Moving down the coast to Montenegro, Plantazw Krstac is a local grape grown on chalky ‘blistering white’ karst soil deep in the hot south of the region. Young, fresh and well made in a former co-operative that has been taken over by its management, this wine was lighter in colour than the Raninas, it maintains a green freshness and vivacity, with somewhat sweeter and spicier fruit on both the nose and mouth.
8) Krauthaker Grasevina Mitrovac, 2009, £17.50
The Grasevina grape (better known as Welschriesling or Laski Riesling) has been a staple of Croatian wine-making for many years, accounting for nearly 30% of production. The grape has not had a good press over the years but this wine, made inland and hard up on the Serbian border, has been winning medals galore. The wine is softer, but with a better acid balance than wine 7, with more tropical fruits and even preserved lemons on the palate – but less interesting on the nose despite its old oak treatment. ‘An elegant wine from a pariah of a grape type’, to quote Angela!
With the third flight, we moved on to reds and a ‘gallop up the coast’.
9) Plantaze Pro Corde, Vranac, 2008, £10.99
Rich, long, soft and almost Gamay-esque in character, this wine produced blackberry and bramble fruits on the nose and palate. With its gentle, concentrated tannins, the wine is considered to be rich in antioxidants. The large co-operative that makes this wine would love to be able to sell it on its ‘medicinal’ basis, hence the name ‘pro corde’.
10) Peljesac Kvalitetno Vine Vinogerie Peljesac, 2010, £8.99
Made from the ‘big blue’ plavac mali grape, this Peljesac (also the name of the place) was pale ruby, with bitter cherry and damson notes and soft tannins. Made using older wine making techniques, this is a wine from the beautiful Croatian island area.
11) Ivan Dolac Plavac Mali, PZ Svrice Hvar, 2007, £25
Made further inland, where the climate is hotter, on chalky soil, from the purportedly ‘iconic’ Plavac Mali grape, this wine was a deep dark ruby with plum and damson fruit and a touch of vanilla. Tannins were soft and this was a warming food wine. Angela told us there is a distinct vintage variation from the much better 2006. It was also, said Angela, a perfect example of the famous (or infamous) ‘brett’ – brettanomyces - aroma that also affects some hot country Australian reds – also known as ‘sweaty saddle’ or ‘old silage’.
12) Gerzinic Teran, 2009, £11.58
Last in this flight came the Gerzinic Teran from the Istrian Penininsula, made from the eponymous local grape which is also known as Terrano in Italy and is part of the refosco family . Tipped as ‘the next big thing’, Angela considers wines from this area to be enormously exciting. This was a dark ruby in colour with brambly fruit, peppery but well balanced tannins and a pleasing richness, a wine made to be enjoyed young.
Last but by no means least, (and who ever said 13 is an unlucky number!) the tasting concluded with:
13) Bodren Ice Wine Cuvée 2009 (estimated price Euros 25+)
This wine has won awards worldwide, including the sweet wine trophy for Eastern Europe at the Decanter Awards. Produced by a hotelier who is in love with making ice wines, this blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Rhone Riesling was superb – golden, with a smoky perfumed nose and long, rich, deep honeyed apricot fruit flavours and a balancing acidity. We owe a huge debt of thanks to Angela for bringing this wine back from Croatia in her suitcase! Alas, it’s not yet exported.
It was a fascinating tasting. Angela’s refreshing directness about the wines and her depth of knowledge about this fast-growing region was remarkable. Perhaps it has not yet found its own direction – hardly surprising after 40 years of collective control and mediocrity – but there’s no doubt that as these younger wine-makers continue to experiment and build up their knowledge of their local soils and grapes some treasures will emerge. And we tasted them here first!
GH/HRE: 30/10/11