Cristina Torres represents the fifth generation of Torres Family winemakers. The original Torres y Compañia was founded in Penedès in 1870, and more than 150 years later Cristina’s uncle, Miguel A Torres, presides over Torres Spain and his son, Miguel Torres Maczassek, runs the winery founded by his father in Chile. Cristina’s mother, Marimar, moved to California in 1975 as ambassador for Torres wines, and planted her own vineyards in Russian River and Sonoma, ‘exporting’ the Torres legacy of fine wines to California. She founded her own Catalan-style Marimar Estate winery in Sonoma in 1992. The Torres family now operates on three ‘continents’ – Spain, Chile and California – and the wines presented at the Tasting represent some of the best of the family’s wines from all three countries.
Cristina was raised in the family tradition by her mother in California. She studied economics in the U.S. before moving to Paris to pursue a career in fashion. Eventually she was drawn back into the wine business, and is now based in London and working with Torres’ UK Distributor John E. Fells. There she promotes the family brand by presenting Torres wines at events and tastings and marketing the Torres international portfolio to Fells’ trade customers.
1. 2011 Cordillera Brut, Miguel Torres, Chile, RRP £13.00.12% ABV.
The tasting got underway with Cordillera Brut Pinot Noir from Chile – “always a good way to start an evening” according to Cristina. Miguel A. Torres (4th generation) founded his winery in Chile in 1979, realising the potential for wine production in a country with superb climate and growing conditions but, at that time, zero foreign investment. This wine, made by the traditional method, is crisp, bright and clean with fresh, floral aromas, ripe fruit, fine bubbles and a biscuity character.
2. 2009 Acero Chardonnay, Marimar Estate, California, RRP £23.00.13.5% ABV.
From Marimar’s property in Russian River, to the north of San Francisco and close to the Pacific, where the vineyards are influenced by cooling sea breezes. Acero is Spanish for ‘steel’, and this wine is – much to members’ surprise – completely unoaked. With aromas and flavours of lime and apple, refreshing acidity and a crisp minerality, its round, rich quality results from 100% malolactic fermentation, which imparts complexity to this medium-bodied wine.
3. 2011 Fransola Sauvignon Blanc, Torres, Spain, RRP £19.00.13% ABV.
This wine hails from Torres’ Fransola vineyard, which is planted in a mountainous region of Catalunya (Penedès). The nose is barely suggestive of Sauvignon Blanc at all - the reason being that 50% of the wine is barrel-fermented in new French and American oak and then aged for a further 8 months in oak. It is this, plus the addition of 10% Parellada, which adds a totally new dimension. Tropical notes dominate (pineapple and passion fruit) with fine citrus flavours and crisp acidity on the palate, plus hints of toast and vanilla, and good length. A versatile, food-friendly wine – this is one of Cristina’s own favourites.
4. 2010 Celeste Tempranillo, Torres, Spain, RRP £13.50.14% ABV
From vineyards in the Ribero del Duero. This was the initiative of the Torres cousins, and the fourth generation took some persuading to invest in this up-and-coming region. The vineyards are situated at 895 metres altitude, hence the name ‘Celeste’, and the distinctive dark blue packaging with bright stars that evoke the heavens. The wine spends 12 months in French and American oak. Deep black cherry-red in colour, it has an intense nose of ripe blackberry and cherry fruit, followed by smoky, toasted notes. This is an elegant, full-bodied wine with notes of black pepper and spice, smooth tannins and a long finish – perfect as an accompaniment to roasted or barbecued meats.
5. 2006 Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir, Marimar Estate, California, RRP £30.00.14.2% ABV
From Marimar’s Doña Margarita vineyard in Sonoma, close to the Pacific Ocean and her ‘Horse Ranch’ property - from which the name derives. Situated on the top of a hill, the vineyard was planted in 2002 and is farmed organically and biodynamically – as are all Torres’ Californian wines. 2006 is only the third vintage for this wine, which is very Burgundian in style. Aged in French oak, it has a nose of roses, strawberries, raspberries and hints of forest floor. On the palate it has bright strawberry and raspberry fruit flavours, fresh acidity, firm but supple tannins and classic Burgundian earthiness and spicy complexity. Beautifully balanced, it shows tremendous potential.
6. 2008 Cristina Pinot Noir, Marimar Estate, California, RRP £37.00.14.5% ABV
This wine is from Marimar’s original ‘Don Miguel’ vineyard in Russian River, and named after her daughter Cristina. It is a special selection of 11 barrels from a unique blend of Pinot Noir clones, aged for 11 months in French oak. The 2008 vintage is deemed to be exceptional, and the wine exhibits aromas of raspberry, rose petal, cinnamon, clove and a trace of orange peel. Full-flavoured and intense with upfront fruit, supple tannins and hints of mocha and spice from the toasty oak, this wine is elegant and complex – accessible right now but with the potential to age and develop for another 20 years.
7. 2009 Cordillera Carignan, Miguel Torres, Chile, RRP £13.00.14% ABV.
The wine is named after the Cordillera mountains in Chile’s Central Valley, and is produced from 70-80 year old Carignan vines. Carignan expresses itself ideally with age – young Carignan is not usually produced as a single varietal – and this fine example is very deep, intense ruby-red in colour with floral and fruits of the forest aromas and hints of toasty oak. Full-bodied, with flavours of black fruit, roasted coffee and spice and a firm tannic backbone, the wine is slightly closed to start but develops beautifully in the glass.
8. 2009 Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon, Torres, Spain, RRP £36.00.14.5% ABV.
In the early 1960s, Cristina’s uncle Miguel, inspired by French varietals and the culture of French winemaking in Bordeaux, planted Cabernet Sauvignon in Penedès. He was greeted with strong opposition, but went on to produce one of Spain’s most popular and highly-acclaimed Cabernet-based wines – Torres Gran Coronas. And back in 1979 nobody could have dreamed that Mas La Plana would triumph in a Parisian blind tasting (Gault Millau) against some of the world's most famous wines! This single-vineyard wine spends 18 months in new French oak and shows intense aromas and black fruit flavours, together with notes of truffle, cedar, tobacco and toast. With tremendous body, a rare intensity of flavour, and beautifully balanced, juicy tannins, this is a wine of great power, elegance and complexity. It is presented in a Burgundy-style bottle, making it quite unique for a Cabernet Sauvignon.
9. 2004 Grans Muralles, Torres, Spain, RRP £58.00+.14.5% ABV. (Very limited production).
The name means ‘great walls’, deriving from the walls surrounding an ancient castle that adjoins the vineyard, which is situated just inland from Barcelona. The ‘licorella’ (slate) soil of the vineyard is similar to the soils of Priorat, and the wine is an interesting revival of some lost and forgotten Catalan varieties - Garró and Samsó, together with red Garnacha, Mazuelo and Monastrell. Aged for 18 months in French oak, this is a deep, dark ruby red with complex aromas of ripe red and black fruits, plus toasted notes and spices (clove). On the palate intense, ripe fruit and round, well-structured tannins give the wine a long, lingering finish. A powerful wine with great depth and complexity.
10. 2009 Nectaria Riesling, Miguel Torres, Chile, RRP £11.00 (half bottle).14.5% ABV
A late-harvest Riesling from Chile’s Curicó Valley which is also botrytis-affected, it is fresh and fragrant, whilst dense and intriguing on the palate. The nose is reminiscent of honey, flowers, spices and slight citrus notes, and the palate is rich and sweet but not cloying, with good balancing acidity and a lingering spicy aftertaste. A good accompaniment for a multitude of desserts, blue cheeses or liver pâtés.
Members showed their appreciation for Cristina’s interesting and enjoyable Tasting, which showcased the Torres family’s breadth and versatility with great flair and insider knowledge – and some very appealing examples. Some of the more unusual wines confounded expectations while others showed tremendous elegance and complexity. In his vote of thanks, Philip Spinks suggested that a vertical tasting of Mas La Plana and Grans Muralles might make an intriguing follow-up at a future date! Now there’s an attractive idea….
CEB/26.01.14.