Members welcomed Ewan Murray, outgoing Events and Tastings Manager at the Wine Society (he is moving into a new PR role with the Company) on his first visit to the Club.
Ewan began with a brief history of the Wine Society, which was founded on stocks of Portuguese wine, which were left over after the International Exhibition at the Royal Albert Hall in 1874. The wines were offered at a series of lunches inaugurated by General Scott, one of the architects of the Albert Hall, and when many of the guests expressed an interest in purchasing wine, General Scott proposed the setting up of ‘a co-operative company’ to buy good quality wines on a regular basis to sell to members. The aim of founding members was to purchase wines direct from growers to ensure their authenticity and quality and offer them to members at fair prices – and so the International Exhibition Co-operative Wine Society Limited came into being. It is the world’s oldest wine club, owned solely by its members and trading only with them. Rather than maximising profit, it continues to aim to serve its members well by supplying authentic wines at fair prices.
The Society eventually came to occupy 3 sites in central London, despatching wines to members by rail. The move to Stevenage - affectionately known as ‘St. Evenage’ - happened in 1965 when the Society was able to take advantage of tax breaks to set up a purpose-built warehousing and distribution centre with its own bottling line. Today, four on-site warehouses hold 7.5 million bottles, and the Society has 118,000 active members and a turnover of £70 million. Its relationship with producers worldwide date back many years - to the 1930s for Jaboulet and Hugel, and to 1906 in the case of sparkling wine producers Gratien & Meyer – and the buyers continue to work very closely with winemakers, buying only wines from producers who share their passion for quality at every price.
The Wine Society has two ‘own label’ ranges. The Society Range is a selection of generic wines from well-known regions that exemplify the essence or ‘typicity’ of that region whilst offering excellent value. These are the wines that members buy most often. The Exhibition Range takes this to the next level, comprising flagship wines from particular appellations that might be defined as ‘benchmark’ wines – all made in close collaboration with the producers. This Tasting was structured to offer an opportunity to compare entry-level wines from the Society Range with their Exhibition Range equivalents and top independent wines from the Society’s list. Thus OWC members might judge for themselves how the flagship Exhibition wines stack up against competition, and compare quality and value at different levels and price points in a way that is just not possible with an ordinary merchant.
1. The Society’s Saar Riesling 2011, £8.95 (11% ABV)
From the 36 ha. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt estate in the Saar Valley, this is a clean, fresh example that carries its sweetness (25 g/l RS) well. Made using natural yeasts and aged extensively on the lees, the wine is evidently youthful, gentle on nose and palate, with vibrant acidity and exceptional length. The owner is a chef, and a weinstube and restaurant situated close to the winery in Trier mean that visitors can enjoy wines produced by the estate. It is recommended that this wine be drunk within two years - with pork dishes, or a light fish curry.
2. The Society’s Exhibition Riesling 2011, £11.95 (13% ABV)
This Alsace Riesling is made in typical bone-dry, unoaked style at the Josmeyer Estate at Wintzenheim, near Colmar, which benefits from an exceptional micro-climate and is in one of the areas of lowest annual rainfall in France. The 28 ha. estate has been organic and biodynamic since the late 1990s, and operates a policy of minimal intervention. The wines are vinified in stainless steel and matured in 6000 litre foudres. This example is youthful and tangy, with delicate minerality and aromas and flavours of green apple skin and lime. Complex and lingering on the palate, its intense acidity will cut through fatty foods, making it an excellent partner for charcuterie and beef carpaccio, as well as shellfish. Ideal as a dinner party wine, it will mature and develop typical kerosene aromas over time. Drink now to 2018.
3. Plantagenet Riesling 2011, Great Southern, £13.50 (12.5% ABV)
From Mount Barker in Western Australia, where the cool influences of the southern ocean are brought to bear on these inland Riesling vineyards planted on slate and limestone soils. The Plantagenet winery was founded by Tony Smith, an English migrant and one of the first £10 ‘Poms’ shipped out to Australia in the 1960s. The wine is produced from 40 year old vines, with some bought-in grapes - all night-harvested to preserve the freshness of the fruit. Only premium free-run juice is used (the rest is sold off), and the wine is fermented at cool temperatures and matured in stainless steel. Ripe, with new world steeliness and mineral complexity, this wine’s citrus character and vibrant acidity follow through to a long and refreshing finish. Its bold, new world flavours need food (tandoori chicken is recommended, along with dim-sum and pickled herrings), and the wine will develop kerosene aromas and honey and lime cordial flavours with age. Under screwcap, it is expected to develop beautifully. Drink now to 2016 and beyond.
4. The Society’s White Burgundy 2011, Mâcon Villages, £7.50 (13% ABV)
This is the Wine Society’s best-selling and most popular wine, of which 18-19,000 cases are sold each year. It is a simple but delicious wine, blended by one of the Society’s seven buyers, Marcel Orford-Williams, and local oenologist Jean-Marc Darbon. Grapes are selected from three different growers in the south of the region to produce a lovely, ripe wine. Made from 100% Chardonnay, the accent is on fruit (no oak), with a good streak of fresh acidity. This lovely, clean, tangy, tropical fruity wine typifies the best of the Mâconnais region – which is very much subject to the vagaries of the weather - and makes an ideal partner for roast chicken and soft cheeses. Drink within 2 years.
5. The Society’s Exhibition Tasmanian Chardonnay 2011, £14.95 (12.5% ABV)
This wine is produced by the Freycinet winery on the east coast of Tasmania where the 2011 vintage was particularly cool and wet and grapes did not quite attain full ripeness. Winemaker Claudio Radenti fermented the wine in 2-5 year old French oak barrels, and it was matured in oak for a further 10 months, undergoing malolactic fermentation and frequent lees stirring. The result is distinctly Burgundian in style, with a smooth, creamy texture, flavours of melon, grapefruit and lemon and high acidity. Recommended as an accompaniment to pumpkin risotto or leek and potato pie. Drink now to 2016.
6. Mâcon aux Bois d’Allier, Domaine Cordier 2010, £11.95 (13.5% ABV)
Founded in 1968, the Domaine Cordier began with only 5 hectares of vineyards but has expanded to 26 hectares in the south of Burgundy. Today Christophe Cordier is an experimental winemaker, buying in some grapes from trusted local growers to add to estate-grown grapes and produce wine of considerable distinction. The 2010 vintage delivered some high quality wines, and this example, produced from grapes grown in the villages of Fuissé, Viré and Milly-Lamartine, was fermented in large oak foudres and underwent the process of micro-oxygenation which helps to develop aromas and richness without imparting oaky flavours, and makes wines approachable early. The wine is beautifully balanced, with flavours of apple crumble and cream as well as fine acidity, complex minerality and a long, rich finish. Good with grilled sea bass, guinea fowl, or soft French cheeses like Brie and Camembert. Drink now to 2014.
7. The Society’s Rioja Crianza 2009, £6.95 (13.5% ABV)
This wine is produced for The Society by Bodegas Palacio at a state-of-the-art modern winery just outside Laguardia in the heart of Rioja. Crianza is a quality designation meaning the wine has been aged for at least 12 months in oak, and this fine example is vinified from a blend of 3 different Tempranillos before spending 12 months in American oak. The result is a fragrant, juicy wine with aromas of strawberries, leather, coconut and vanilla. It has a lovely round, spicy palate with a savoury edge and fairly serious tannins. Perfect with roast lamb or shepherd’s pie. Drink now to 2014+.
8. The Society’s Exhibition Rioja Reserva 2006, £12.50 (13.5% ABV)
This wine comes from the Rioja Alta Bodega, which, in contrast to the previous producer, is a very traditional enterprise. The winery has its own cooperage, and all the wines are matured in American oak. The 2006 vintage of this wine was released last year after the requisite 18 months in barrel and an extended period of ageing in bottle. It is characterised by very ripe fruit and pronounced vanilla aromas. On the palate it has great warmth, grippy tannins and huge depth of flavour. A wine of tremendous style and complexity, with a long, satisfying finish. Beautifully integrated, it will mature well and is recommended for drinking now to 2016 – with roast lamb, roast duck or Manchego cheese.
9. Muga Reserva Rioja 2008, £13.50 (13.5% ABV)
The Muga bodega at Haro, the capital of the Rioja Alta, is another traditional winery which also has its own in-house cooperage. The barrels are made from 60% French oak (Tronçon and Allier) together with oak from Kentucky and Ohio. This wine is produced mostly from Tempranillo with the addition of small quantities of 3 other varieties to lend complexity to the blend, and spends 24 months in oak and at least 12 months in bottle. The result is a wine with tremendous ageing potential. Dry, powerful and spicy with a rich fruit quality and structure, this will develop and become more approachable with age. It is recommended for drinking up to 2016, but will continue to evolve for 10+ years. Partner with roasted meats, casseroles and shepherd’s pie.
10. The Society’s Côtes du Rhône 2011, £6.25 (13.5% ABV)
This wine marks a different style for the Society’s own-label Côtes du Rhône. Since last year it has by been supplied by Domaine Jaume in Vinsobres, a hillside village in the south of the Rhône Valley which has only recently been granted ‘cru’ status. A blend of 80% Grenache with 20% Syrah, it is a round, fruity wine with a hint of spice and great typicité. Described as “almost too drinkable” by a Club member, this wine was one of the favourites of the evening – and particularly good value. Vinified for early drinking, it makes an ideal match for meat dishes, a variety of cheeses - and haggis.
11. The Society’s Exhibition Gigondas 2007, £13.95 (14.5% ABV)
Made by winemaker, Louis Barroul, 15th generation winemaker at Château de Saint Cosme, founded in 1517, where the vineyards date back to Roman times. This wine is made from a blend of old vines (60 years old) Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grown in the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Grapes are late harvested in mid-October, and the wine is matured in small oak barrels for a period of 18 months. It is rich and seductive, but fabulously concentrated, dark and spicy with lovely fruit and acidity and tremendous weight. It will require further time to mature and become fully integrated, whereupon it should be decanted and served with venison. Drink between 2014 and 2020.
12. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Sinards, Perrin 2006, £20.00 (14% ABV)
From the Château de Beaucastel, this is a blend of late-harvested young vines Grenache (60%), Syrah and Mourvèdre from three different vineyard sites, and from a particularly good vintage. The wine is 100% aged in oak for 12 months. From the excellent 2006 Rhône vintage, the wine is intensely fruity, with notes of mulberry, blackcurrant and cherry as well as hints of tobacco, cedar and liquorice on the nose and palate. Deep and full-bodied, it is an elegant and complex wine, capable of evolving over the next 5-6 years. Drink now to 2018, with shepherd’s pie or Lancashire hotpot.
In her vote of thanks Hilary Reid-Evans paid special tribute to those Club and Committee members who had worked tirelessly behind the scenes to make this event such a success. She went on to thank Ewan warmly for a very lively and interesting Tasting – memorable for his rapid-fire delivery, fascinating behind-the-scenes insights, vivid wine descriptions (fruit salad and cold custard anyone?), appreciation of young wines and – crucially – his recommendation for a good wine to drink with haggis! She also announced that for a limited period the Wine Society would be offering OWC members a generous 10% discount on wines tasted during the course of the evening.
CEB/27.02.13.