Introducing the event, Club Committee member Graham Harding informed those present that a ‘spectacular’ is so named because the Club has made a contribution to the cost of the wines, to ensure we are able to test some truly spectacular wines. In this case, the wines to be tasted are also the result of Michael Palij’s personal generosity and his ability to Twist the arms of a few producers!
Michael Palij (MP) is a co-founder of the Club, introduced many of those present to the WSET exams and is an Italian wine specialist.
The evening was divided into some background story-telling by MP, followed by a tasting of and commentary on the nine wines presented.
Wine 1- Paolo Zuccheto, Prosecco Superiore DOCG, £19.50
This served as an introductory wine while MP outlined the key aspects of Tuscany and Tuscan wine growing.
Azienda Agricola Paolo Zucchetto is located on top of the Cartizze hill, located in the best part of the Prosecco terroir and sheltered by the peaks of the Dolomites. The steep hillside vineyards of Valdobbiadene face the lagoon of Venice to the south.
The wine is bottle fermented and not disgorged, leading to some cloudiness, which was evident especially when nearing the end of the bottles poured. MP commented that cloudy wines are ‘all the rage’. On the palate some white peach and apricot, with a hint of apple.
Introduction to Tuscany
MP began by telling a Bob Newhart joke, which highlights the hilly topography, the old buildings, good food and spectacular nature of the Tuscan area, contrasting it very favourably with a visit to Bordeaux.
The wine history of the area is defined by the (at the time controversial) proposal made in the 1880s to ‘de-regionalise’ the Chianti area. This was defeated due to the efforts of the then Baron Ricasoli, who is credited with originating the formula for Chianti wine, now known as Chianti Classico. The old system of sharecropping which underpinned many of the Chianti wine-making traditions persisted until as recently as the 1960s.
Wine 2 – Belvento Viognier 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT, £18
MP introduced the wine by commenting that it is ‘a repellent white wine’ but was chosen to illustrate it is difficult outside of the Rhone to get Viognier right. It is stainless steel fermented with a nose and palate reminiscent of lavender and bruised apples. Somewhat acidic. The wine was purchased from what MP referred to as a ‘wine mule’ company, companies that operate a ‘Silk Road for Wine’ on which no tax is paid.
Owned by the Moretti building family, who also own Bella Vista in Franciacorta, the wine is made by the Petra branch of the Moretti empire. MP explained that owning an Azienda Agricola (which is how the vineyard that produces this wine is classified) is a tax ‘wheeze’ so long as one produces and sells the product grown there. Hence an excellent way of siphoning off the profits from the building business and not paying tax! MP commented that the Moretti certainly make the most of their building connections, with spectacular wineries.
MP reminded us that Vermentino, Vernaccia and Trebbiano are the most commonly grown and most successful Tuscan grape varieties, with Trebbiano the most widely planted and Vermentino grown more on the coast. There is something of a white wine revolution underway in Italy with international grape varieties such as Chardonnay now more widely grown.
Wine 3 - Collosorbo Sant’Antimo Rosso Doc 2021 £17.99
MP introduced the concept of ‘Super Tuscans’ by saying that the wines are made from grape varieties that include those that were previously declared illegal under the appellation rules. However it is impossible to define by grape variety alone as most Super Tuscans are comprised of several key varieties and blends vary. Grapes commonly used in Super Tuscan wines are the classic Italian variety Sangiovese alongside international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Tignanello from Antinori and Ornellaia from Frescobaldi are amongst the best-known Super Tuscans. Sassicaia (the place of the stones) is thought of as the first of the Super Tuscans with Super Tuscans first appearing in the 1970s and commanding what were then thought of as extremely high prices. MP commented that where France has attitude Italy has altitude, which means that with climate change vines can be planted on higher slopes and obtain optimal phenolic ripeness, something that some areas of France are finding difficult on the lower-typing vineyards of for example Bordeaux. Many Bordeaux vineyards are now employing reverse osmosis (taking out alcohol and adding water) to reduce the high alcohol content and ‘jamminess’ of their wines. Demand for Super Tuscans remains high and so prices have increased, which contrasts with the pricing of Bordeaux wines.
MP commented that until 1996 it was illegal to make Chianti without including some white grape varieties. Now it can be 100% Sangiovese.
Rosso di Montalcino is a DOC used for aged or unaged Sangiovese from the Brunello region. Sant’Antimo is an ‘appellation for grape varieties that do not fit into the other Tuscan appellations’. A relatively new appellation, Sant’Antimo is located in Montalcino, where slopes are influenced both by their altitude and proximity to the river at their foot.
The wine is 50% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, grown on galestro: fractured, compacted sandstone soil and aged for 12 months in 80% old French barriques. 2021 is considered to be one of the best years for this wine. MP described the nose on this wine as ‘like ripping open a pheasant’! The winemaker-oenologist is Laura Sutera Sardo. Collorsorbo also produces a Brunello.
Wine 4 – Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Vigna nel Bosco IGT 2019, £67.20
MP introduced this wine telling the story of how in 2015 the owner of a New York pasta restaurant, a financial advisor and the owner of a ceramic tile business ended up purchasing a derelict vineyard in the highest part of Chianti Classico. Naturally the decision involved a dinner and several bottles of wine!
The Vigna nel Bosco wine is only made in years where the grapes ripen, since this is from vines planted on the very highest part of the property. 100% Sangiovese and harvested towards the end of September to ensure optimal ripeness. Some oak maturation in 2k litre barrels. On the nose and palate black fruits (cherries), spices, blueberries and cold tea. MP commented he did not have any indication of how the wine might age, since it is made in so few years and has no ageing history. 2019 was noted for its exceptional climatic conditions which allowed optimal ripening – days were not too hot and nights were not too cool. The wine could be classified as a Chianti Classico but the winemakers already have one in their portfolio, therefore this is labelled differently. A winner of the Sommeliers Choice Awards gold medal in 2024. The winemaker is Serena Gusmeri.
Wine 5 – Castello di Bossi, ‘Corbaia’ Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Toscana IGT £82.00
Also from the Chianti Classico area, but from a commune on the southern flank of what in pre-history was a lake. The vines were planted by the original winemaker, who had worked at Sassicaia and are now around an average of 60 years old. Castello di Bossi was bought in 1982 by Marco Bacci (MP says for cash!) and is today run by his family including his son Jacopo. MP told the stories of his various adventures with Marco Bacci including making illegal grappa and cutting up (a similarly illegally shot) wild boar with a chainsaw.
The wine is 70% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Certified organic. Aged in barriques for 24 months, 20% new oak. On the nose and palate, black fruits, some herbal notes, cassis/blackcurrant. Drinking well now.
Wine 6 – Castello di Bossi ‘Girolamo’ Merlot 2018, Toscana IGT £63.50
Made from grapes grown on what is thought to be the oldest single plot of Merlot in central Tuscany, in the southern part of the Chianti Classico appellation. Malolactic fermentation in the barrel. 18-24 months in barriques. Fine tannins. Vinification is much the same as for the Corbaia (above). 100% destemmed. Three vintages of this wine were voted the best Tuscan Merlot. A pleasant vegetal character on the nose and palate.
Wine 7 – Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC 2018 £330.50
The third of the 2018 vintage wines tasted. Located near the town of California and owned by the della Rocchetta family, Sassicaia is currently managed by CEO Alessandro Berlingieri. The origins of the Super Tuscan Sassicaia we know today lie with Nicolo Incisa della Roccetta, who is now Honorary President of Tenuta Sassicaia. The first vintage of Sassicaia was produced in 1968 with the first commercial vintage being sold in 1970.
Originally marshland, the area was drained during the Mussolini era and the soils are generally alluvial, with limestone further up the slopes. The slopes give Sassicaia a natural advantage over for example Ornellaia, which does not have higher altitude vineyards and so is more exposed to the vagaries of climate change. The estate covers about 13 kilometres (2,500 hectares) between the hill fortress of Castiglioncello and the coast. The vineyards have a west/south-west exposure and are protected from north-easterly winds by a range of hills. The first Cabernet Sauvignon vines were planted in the early 1940s. The area of planting of Sassicaia has its own DOC, in recognition of its unique soil type, microclimate and exposure.
2018 is described as a ‘classic year’. Grapes are soft crushed and destemmed. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of around 26o C without the addition of yeasts. 13-15 days of maceration for the Cabernet Franc and 15-17 days for the Cabernet Sauvignon. Daily oxygen pumping and délestages (rack and return). Malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats. Aged for 24 months in French oak barriques, with a small percentage in American oak. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc.
On the nose, blackberries, herbs, citrus, and violets with a hint of tobacco. On the palate, well-balanced and complex with good acidity, a long finish and flavours of cassis, orange zest, and liquorice.
Wine 8 – Isole e Olena, Cepparello 1996, ICT £73.20
100% Sangiovese, from a single vineyard on the west side of Chianti Classico territory, half-way between Florence and Siena, and subject to a more maritime climate. Previously owned and run by Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena is now owned by the EPI Group, owners of (amongst other wine interests) Charles Heidsieck champagne.
Matured in a mixture of new and old American oaks. Sadly, the wine (all 3 bottles) proved to be lean and lacking in fruit, despite being double decanted. MP had hoped to illustrate the longevity of Sangiovese.
Wine 9 – Torre a Cona, Vin Santo del Chianti DOC 2016, £58
Made from 50% Trebbiano and 50% Malvasia. Picked at the end of October, dried until January in ventilated rooms. Fermented and aged (for about 5 years) in small Slavonian oak barrels. About 14.5% ABV.
While we enjoyed our glass along with some almond cantucci, MP regaled us with stories of the ‘Versailles of France’ which is owned by the Rossi di Montelera family, of Martini & Rossi fame. The estate features luxury accommodation and a Michelin-starred restaurant, as well as the winery.
Giving the vote of thanks, Andrew Maclean stressed the passion and knowledge that MP brings to his subject – as well as a fund of amazing anecdotes!
Cherwell Boathouse Marquee
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