An Insider’s Perspective
On this, his third visit to the OWC, Richard Kelley brought with him not only some warm and sunny weather but also his alter ego, Rick, The Wine Liberator (see www.theliberatorwine.com). A resident of South Africa from 1995 to 2002, Richard/Rick is passionate about the country, whose wines are his self-confessed second love after those of the Loire. Richard still visits South Africa two or three times a year and has an interest in the importation of many of what are arguably South Africa’s most exciting wines. Richard’s enthusiasm and his encyclopaedic knowledge of the country, its wines and the people who make them was infectious and judging by the noise level between flights, the OWC certainly caught the contagion!
1. Bon Courage ‘Blanc de Blancs – Jacques Bruere’ 2006 WO Robertson
We were lucky to be the first in the UK to taste this vintage which has just landed in the UK. Pale straw in colour, light, fresh and with good but not overwhelming acidity, this was the ideal ‘refresher’ wine to follow the formal business of the OWC AGM, which had preceded Richard’s tasting. Made by the 6th generation of wine makers of Huguenot descent, the wine is matured for a year in old barrels then spends four in bottle before disgorging. Approximately £15 retail.
2. Klein Constantia Riesling 2004 Constantia
Made in one of the oldest areas of wine production in South Africa and in what Richard describes as today being a ‘southern suburb of Cape Town’ the Constantia estate changed ownership last year. The climate is cool, despite not having great elevation, due to the estate’s proximity to the coast. Although faster ageing than German Rieslings, Richard likes to give this wine some ageing time, so that the classic petrol notes appear on the nose and these were indeed evident. Richard advised that South African Rieslings tend to stay on a plateau longer than their European equivalents, but do not generally have such longevity. Riesling is not much planted in South Africa so this was something of a rare treat, and one from Richard’s own cellar. Light on the palate, with lots of classic fruit flavours, evident minerality and some residual sugar. 12½% alcohol.
3. The Foundry Grenache Blanc 2011 Voor Paardeberg
Best known for its red wines, The Foundry is a relatively young winery (founded in 2000) which won a John Platter 5 star award for its debut vintage of Grenache Blanc in 2010. Hand harvested, the wine has a small amount of Viognier and Roussin in the blend, mainly deriving from the vinification of the Grenache Blanc on the lees of the other grapes. There is no ageing profile for this wine but Richard indicated it might be best within its first 2-3 years. Light on the nose with some white stone fruit notes, the wine was dry and evolved quickly in the glass, with distinct mineral, and some nutty, notes on the palate. £12-13 retail.
4. Jordan ‘Nine Yards’ Chardonnay 2009 Stellenbosch
Made by an experienced husband and wife duo, whose family fortune was based on shoe making. After a spell working with some top names in California, the couple have developed their own estate, ensuring that the different grape varieties are grown in the most beneficial section of their vineyard and are renowned for their attention to detail in their wine making, which seems to pay considerable dividends. For example, the 2010 vintage of this wine has just won a Decanter award for the best South African chardonnay. The wine, made from Chardonnay vines which at around 30 years are old by South African standards, has spent between 12 and 15 months in mainly new barrels. There is no battonage, but the (Burgundian) barrels are rolled on special rails instead, just one of the many examples of the detail that add up to the whole ‘nine yards’. Somewhat Meursault like on the nose and palate, silky and oily. Longevity is estimated at 5-10 years, alcohol 14%, retail price around £23.
5. Miles Mossop ‘Saskia’ 2009 Western Cape
The wine-maker Miles Mossop is allowed to make around a thousand cases a year on his own account at the smart banker-owned Takara vineyard where he works. He produces three wines, which are named after his children. The Saskia is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Viognier (approx 70/30), the grapes being separately vinified, with natural fermentation. Maturation is in French oak barrels (about 20% new) before blending. The chenin blanc is picked in two passes, the first for freshness and the second once botrytisation and raisining have take place, to give richness and complexity. Unusual nose, aromatics, oak, candied lemon peel. Fresh and long on the palate. Alcohol 14½, retail price c £20.
6. Eben Sadie ‘Old Vine Series – T’Voetpad’ 2010 Swartland
Made by one of the most highly respected wine makers in South Africa, this is a blend of several grape varieties including Chenin Blanc, Semillon Blanc, Semillon Gris and Palomino. Sourced from parcels of old ungrafted vines discovered by vitculturalist Rosa Kruger, yields are low and production is very limited. No pesticides are used and the grapes are picked and pressed together and co-fermented. Decanting is recommended. Unusual quince and pear notes on the nose and palate, long dry mineral finish. 14½% alcohol. (T’Voetpad means footpath – an old elephant trail!)
7. Eben Sadie ‘Old Vine Series – Pofadder’ 2010 Swartland
Our first red of the evening, the wine is produced from Cinsault grapes and a single vineyard. The large high yielding grapes have many quality issues associated with them, but Eben Sadie uses open oak fermentation, punching down and old-style basket pressing into old oak casks in order to contain these. On the nose, tinned red fruits but with good freshness and acidity on the palate. Eben Sadie recommends decanting and Richard thinks the wine will continue to age well for 5 to 15 years. However since this is only the second release there is no track record. 14½% alcohol, c £30 retail.
8. Cape Chamonix Pinot Noir Reserve 2010 Franschhoek
Produced in an expensive residential area renowned for its boutique vineyards, the valley is a dead end which has somewhat sandy soil as one enters. This wine is made however by one of the few producers in the area who are ‘rated’ by Richard Kelley and this wine was awarded red wine of the year by the 2012 John Platter guide. Pinot Noir accounts for less than 1% of vineyard plantings in South Africa and this example is produced from old vines using traditional Burgundian techniques (including a cellar full of mould!). The vineyards are south-east facing but are shaded by the surrounding pine trees to give a cooler vineyard environment, despite the high ambient temperatures. The soil has a high limestone content which is one of the secrets of producing good Pinot Noir. Light in colour, with hints of burnt rubber and some distinct oak on the nose, strawberry notes developing later on both the nose and palate. Considered to be an early maturing wine compared with French Burgundies. £16-17 retail. RK expects the 2011 vintage will be the best produced so far.
9. The Liberator ‘Episode Three’ The Bandolier 2009 Stellenbosch
A Bandol look-alike, 50/50 Mourvedre and Syrah. Liberated by Richard’s alter ego Rick, this wine is part of a series of high quality, small parcels of wines, specially blended. With the Syrah softening the Mourvedre, this is an instantly approachable soft ‘gluggable’ red, which has spent 15 months in bottle. 15% alcohol, c£13 retail. See www.theliberatorwine.com for further details. Episode Four is due later in 2012.
10. Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Western Cape
Produced by Marc Kent, who is considered one of South Africa’s leading wine makers, Richard kindly brought this from his own cellar so we could experience the wine with a little bottle age. Boekenhoutskloof is the name given to the producer’s range of high end single varietal wines – the others being Semillon, Syrah and the occasional botrytised Semillon. Rich ripe red fruits on the nose, gentle and soft on the palate. Less complex than one might expect of a Bordeaux-type wine but this was not pretending to be anything other than what it is. Perhaps reaching the end of its drinking window now. The latest available vintage is c£25 retail.
11. Cape Chamonix ‘Greywacke’ Pinotage 2009 Franschhoek
An unusual wine with a first ‘normal’ picking followed by a later picking of slightly shrivelled grapes. This later picking is added to the already fermented early one, leading to a secondary fermentation, in a manner akin to the Italian ripasso method. Around 5% Pinot Noir is added to the Pinotage grapes. The wine is matured in 40% new oak. Rich dark fruits and smoky spice on the nose and palate, with a slight tingling in the nose that we were assured comes from the acerbic spice aromas, perhaps associated with the new oak. 14% alcohol, c £13 retail.
A net wine exporter, South Africa is the oldest of the ‘New World’ producers yet as Richard said is still something of a country of beer and brandy and brandy drinkers. Nevertheless, it produces some wines of world beating quality and Richard had assembled a fair number of these for us to sample. Our thanks and a toast – to Richard’s fourth OWC visit!
HRE 4.6.12