Pierre Mansour gave a masterclass on Rioja and Ribera del Duero to a full hall at St Peter’s on Monday evening. As anticipated, the two wine regions both oozed class, but their important differences were very apparent and moreover, well explained by Pierre. Given the chill, I dare say that the red-leaning (OWC has no political affiliation) tasting was welcome in that it was full of winter warmers!
Robert Parker’s name was taken in vain, and not having added up raised hands in any way shape or form, one might tentatively say that Rioja won the day? What else did we learn? That the most expensive wines are not always the best, and that people are unpredictable: the traditional 50:50 split on wine preference was in full effect. Pierre reminded us that enjoyment is the most important thing with wine; he then delivered plenty of it. The post-tasting-cheesy wines were both worthy of being in the tasting flight themselves: the white a rarity from the edge of Ribera (not technically in it), and the red a lovely velvety rioja from 2006 in the other cooler zone of Rioja, Alavesa. Unsurprisingly, ageing and oaking are key to the styles of these regions’ wines, though quality in raw materials is a prerequisite. Perhaps most surprising was the knowledge that vintage variation is crucial in Ribera as in Rioja, despite being a continental climate. Why? The frost-risk here endures for 200 days of the year, and if that’s successfully negotiated drought conditions can threaten in high season!
All the wines of the evening were society wines, so to speak, so it should come as no surprise that they were of such quality. The Wine Society is a wonderful institution, and if you’re not already members, it is eminently worth looking into. Membership makes for a great Christmas present, with the added bonuses of being ethical and not contributing to that perennial nuisance of ‘unnecessary clutter’.
Have a great Christmas if we don’t see you at the Christmas dinner, and we look forward to seeing you all in the new year.
Top tip too: many members will be well aware of Rueda, but to those who aren’t, do seek out Rueda whites, preferably made from the Verdejo grape. The region is near Ribera del Duero, and makes fresh, green, aromatic whites, which give sauvignon blanc a run for its money, and with less food miles than most of the new world.