To start the 2024/25 season, OWC members were treated to a very special tasting of New Zealand wines presented by one our Vice Presidents, Richard Bampfield MW.
Whilst presenting us with one wine made from Sauvignon Blanc and two others made from Pinot Noir, Richard’s underlying theme for the evening was to introduce Club members to top quality wines made from grapes other than the two ubiquitous grape varieties most of us would usually associate with New Zealand. In his introduction he highlighted how New Zealand wines now ‘punch above their weight’ despite a wine industry that has only really developed since the late 1980s. Furthermore, this has been achieved with just 40,000 hectares of vines; a third of the size of Bordeaux.
Before the wines were poured, Richard made the point that 90% New Zealand wines are bottled with screw caps, [allowing a slower aging process], and, to the applause of all present, he regaled us with a skilful demonstration of the most stylish way to open such a bottle.
The tasting started with a surprise; a wine made from Albariño grapes. Explaining that he had recently walked part of the Camino in Galicia and that as ‘walking is thirsty work’, Richard had enjoyed lots of Albariño whilst in the region. This New Zealand version is mouth-watering, food friendly … and ‘it’s ok to drink it on its own’. This was followed by an obligatory Sauvignon Blanc, albeit having aged for 12 years and possibly ‘half-way to being botrytised’, with a different rich buttery texture compared with younger Sauvignon Blancs. It was during the tasting of this wine that Richard introduced us to his ‘second glass’ theory in which he determines the quality of a wine by deciding whether he could drink a second glass of it or not. Having ‘lost its varietal expressiveness’ he was undecided about this Giesen wine. However, Richard did decide that he could drink two glasses of the next wine; a Kumeu River, 2019 Chardonnay made and blended especially for the Wine Society. The wine showed ‘the effortless balance of well-made Chardonnay’ demonstrating how ‘New Zealand now makes world class Chardonnays’. The final white wine and the favourite white of the majority in the room, was an aged Riesling from Pegasus Bay. ‘Explosive on the nose and on the palate’, more than two glasses of this wine could certainly have been enjoyed.
The final four wines were all reds, two from Pinot Noir, a Bordeaux blend and to finish a Syrah. Noting that in New Zealand ‘it is difficult to determine regional Pinot Noir characteristics’ as ‘the winemaker, and not the terroir as in Europe, is the key to the production of good wine,’ Richard presented the Greywacke 2020 Pinot Noir. This proved to be ‘clean, well made and elegant’ with ‘good Pinot Noir authenticity’. The second Pinot Noir was the 2021 from Valli Waitaki Vineyards, showing ‘effortless balance’ and being ‘what Pinot Noir is all about’ it was very much the preferred of the two. As Richard noted, ‘you have to pay a bit more for good Pinot Noir’ though in comparison being with Burgundies this wine was deemed to be excellent value. He would certainly have enjoyed a second glass or more of this excellent wine, indeed he explained that he was ‘meant to be driving home tonight, but if there is any more of this left, I’ll be staying in Oxford!’
With appreciation of the Valli wine still ongoing, we were presented with the only wine of the evening bottled with a cork closure; Stonyridge Airfield 2022. This quality Merlot dominated Bordeaux blend, in comparison to the previous two reds, did show some evidence of terroir. Urging us to continue our appreciation of the wines stating that ‘it’s gruelling stuff this wine tasting … but let’s carry on’, we were presented with the final wine of the evening, the 2012 Giesen Clayvin Vineyard Syrah. Claiming that ‘we could guarantee that no one else in the country is drinking this’, members enjoyed this exciting, and exceptional, aged Syrah. ‘If this is what 12-year-old Syrah tastes like, then we’ve got a lot of exciting things to look forward to.’
The tasting was brought to a close with a final comment from Richard about the continuing rapid pace of change and quality progression of the New Zealand wine industry and the thought that ‘as you work your way through a glass (or two) or a bottle of New Zealand wine you discover more.’
Members showed their appreciation following a vote of thanks proposed by Graham Harding and all ‘look forward to a second glass of Richard!’
The wines we tasted are detailed below:
1) Anna’s Way Albariño 2023, Nelson 13.5%, The Wine Society. £11.50.
Anna’s Way [west of Marlborough] is inspired by the late Anna Vavasour who was a true pioneer in the New Zealand wine industry. Anna Helped to inspire and plant the first vines in the Awatere Valley and set up the first winery in the mid 1980’s. The brand is a symbol of Anna’s vision and is depicted by the Gates that lead into the winery. Swung open, they symbolise women’s empowerment and the freedom of expression that comes with it.
“To all those who dare to dream”
The nose is delicately aromatic, and citrus led. The palate is textured, fresh and dry, with yellow apple and zesty lemon to the fore, plus a seashell-saline finish. A very refreshing wine
“Anna’s Way punches well above its weight, an awesome albariño.” Jane MacQuitty
2) Giesen The Fuder Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Matthews Lane Vineyard, 14.5%.
This single vineyard is situated in the Wairau Valley, Marlborough. The grapes for this wine are handpicked from the 20ha Matthews Lane Vineyard with its own unique terroir (free draining river silt and gravels) and climate. The grapes are purposely cropped at around 6 tons/hectare, (the average for the region is 16 tons). They are hand-picked and then whole bunch pressed, with a low yield of just 500 litres a ton. Two tons of grapes fill one fuder,
After a wild yeast starter made in the vineyard, the juice rests on yeast lees for 11 months in new 1,000L German Oak Fuder Barrels. The Fuders enable excellent lees influence (due to large dimension across the bottom of the barrel) as well as an aromatic sweetness from the lighter oak toasting.
A bright, pale gold coloured fragrant wine. Aromas of honeysuckle, peach, and passionfruit on the nose with some minerality. Showing layers of texture and reasonable complexity on the palate with concentrated flavours of citrus and stone fruits to the fore. The oak is well interacted and has a long, clean finish.
17/20 from Julia Harding MW.
3) Wine Society 150th Anniversary Chardonnay 2019, Kumeu River 14%. (No longer available). £45.
The Kumeu River Estate is located north-west of Auckland, just off the coast on Waiheke Island, in the Bay of Islands. This stylish wine is a special limited edition blend made by Kumeu for the Wine Society, which takes equal portions from two of their most coveted single vineyards, Coddington and Matés Vineyard. The Maté’s portion in the blend, is barrel fermented and aged in mainly old oak, gives great concentration, length, density and ‘creamy phenolics’ (James Suckling). The first grapes from this vineyard, planted in 1990, were harvested in March 1993. The Coddington vineyard produces very rich and unctuous Chardonnay. Produced using only a trace of new oak, it is ripe and peachy with subtle brioche, cooked lemon and apple notes. Overall, in the blend, the oak is not very noticeable. It has a long finish. A complex, intense and focused wine to drink from now until 2034.
As with all the other Anniversary wines there was only a strictly limited supply, and due to their unique provenance and ageing, once sold will not be available again.
4) Pegasus Bay Aged Release Riesling 2014, Waipara 13.5%, New Generation Wines. £20.
The Waipara Valley is in North Canterbury, on the east coast of the South Island. Planted in 1985 the family-owned Pegasus Bay vineyard is largely un-grafted producing ultra-low yields of grapes per vine with loose bunches and small berries. Tucked up under the lee of the Teviotdale Range, the vineyard gets maximum protection from the Pacific’s easterly breezes, while heat summation during the day is promoted by the smooth stones and gravels left behind by an ancient riverbed washed down from the Southern Alps. The soil is free draining and of low fertility, resulting in naturally reduced vine vigour. This produces optimally ripened, high quality, flavourful grapes, which fully express the qualities of this unique setting. The vineyard is an accredited member of the NZWG sustainable viticulture programme.
This richly textured wine has a pale gold lemon sheen, with profound citrus (mandarin, grapefruit), floral (frangipani, orange blossom) notes with layers of tropical fruits (pineapple, mango) and a flinty minerality. The palate is vibrant, rounded and energised, with a honeyed long-lasting finish. Drink from now until 2030.
“Surely a classic in its own right.” Michael Broadbent.
5) Greywacke Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough 13.5%, The Wine Society, £32.
Greywacke vineyard (Marlborough) was created in 2009 by Kevin Judd, chief winemaker at Cloudy Bay. This cuvee is made at Dog Point Winery from grapes principally sourced from the Yarrum Vineyard around the Brancott Valley and the central Wairau Plains. Grapes are hand-picked, chilled overnight prior to hand sorting and followed by natural indigenous yeast fermentation using mostly destemmed bunches (some whole bunch), then aged in French oak (30% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling in late February 2021.
Tasting notes @ https://greywacke.com/docs/GreywackeTastingNotes-PinotNoir.pdf
Intensely perfumed, cherry, strawberry and characteristic earthiness on the nose. The palate is firm and youthful with fine-grained tannins and good freshness and flavours of bramble and red fruit, has great length, firm but delicate tannins and a delicious spicy finish. Drink to 2030.
“Perfectly formed." Bob Campbell MW
6) Valli Waitaki Vineyards Pinot Noir 2021, North Otago 14%, New Generation Wines. £40.
Valli Wines was established in 1998 by pioneering Otago Winemaker, Grant Taylor and named after his great-great Grandfather, Giuseppe Valli, who immigrated to New Zealand from an Italian winemaking background. Grant founded Valli with the aim of creating single-vineyard wines that could highlight the different characteristics of Otago’s sub-regions. In 2015 he was joined by female winemaker Jen Parr.
There are only a handful of winemakers in the Waitaki region an area in which growing conditions can be difficult. The first commercial vintage from the Waitaki vineyard was in 2004. Like Burgundy, the soils are limestone based. These soils lend an ethereal nature to the wines, which are highlighted by perfume and minerality. Slightly cooler than Central Otago, the Waitaki Valley should not be cropped as heavily, and therefore Valli’s Waitaki Vineyard is close planted at 5000 vines per hectare with early ripening clones from Dijon and Pommard.
Valli Wine: https://valliwine.com/previous-wine-releases/valli-waitaki-vineyard-pinot-noir
The grapes are 100% destemmed then fermented at 29C to 14% alc, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 29% new.
Moderately deep ruby-red with a garnet reflection. The nose is enticing and complex with aromas of wild strawberry, cassis, and mulberry laced with maple, cedar and wild thyme. On the palate it’s a little more classic with flavours of garrigue spice, cardamom, strawberry, tart cherry, and mushroom. Medium-bodied, with fine tannin structure and length. Drinking from now until 2030-32
‘Intense and pure and spicy. Light tannins. Really intense but delicate.’ Jancis Robinson.
7) Stonyridge Airfield 2022, Waiheke Island 13.5%, Davy’s £32.
Another Waiheke Island wine. Stonyridge vineyard was established in 1982 by Stephen White. Nestled in a North-facing valley with a sunny aspect ideally situated to produce world-class Bordeaux-style wines. The Stonyridge 1987 Larose, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Carménère, rocketed Stonyridge to national fame and was hailed as the greatest red wine ever made in New Zealand. The 6-ha vineyard is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller plots of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec as well as some Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Viognier and Chardonnay. Airfield is a Merlot dominant wine (45%), blended with Malbec (19%), Cab Franc (19%), Petit Verdot (16%), and Syrah (1%).
The colour is a vibrant ruby. On the nose the wine shows some fresh raspberry and dark cherry as well as subtle notes of cinnamon from the French oak influence. On the palate soft silky tannins balance the acidity. Can be cellared for up to 8 years.
“One of the Top Ten Must Visit Wineries in the World” Guardian UK.
8) Giesen Clayvin Vineyard Syrah 2012, Marlborough 14%
Another single vineyard wine from Giesen. The Clayvin vineyard, made up of fragile clay pans, gravels and silt loams, is located to the end of Brancott Valley, on the foothills of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys. A high density, low yielding vineyard producing highly concentrated, expressive fruit. The vines are 30 years old and organically farmed. The grapes are selectively hand-picked then held on skins for 27 days at 13-15°C and warmed to encourage the wild ferment. Matured in 225L French oak barriques comprising 40% new oak. The wine is aged in oak for two winters before racking and blending.
100% Syrah, displaying a deep garnet colour. On the nose there are initially aromas of blackcurrants, violets and chocolate, bolstered with earthy notes, spicy dark fruit, bramble and a hint of oak. The palate reveals refined tannins and flavours of blackberry underpinned by excellent quality oak - augmenting the wine's peppery, spicy character - and topped with a juicy, long finish.
Obtained a Regional Trophy in the 2015 Decanter World Wine Awards.
