Simon Blower welcomed members to the Tasting by introducing a few interesting wine market statistics. The off-trade in the UK is currently worth £5.1 billion per annum, and given the average price per bottle is only £4.89, that means over a billion bottles of wine are sold each year – of which the supermarket share is a staggering 80%! Clearly the supermarkets have enormous power and influence over the wines that most people buy and drink on a regular basis, and hence the importance of ‘rapport qualité-prix’ - the relationship between quality and price. This phrase is particularly resonant for Simon who, as a former Head of Wine Buying for Sainsbury’s worked with the legendary Allan Cheesman – a man credited with revolutionising supermarket wines and for whom the phrase was an oft-repeated mantra.
Hence the purpose of the Tasting – an illustration of the relationship between quality and price under the expert tutelage of Jane Parkinson. Jane is a writer for a number of specialist publications including Restaurant and Stylist magazines, an author (her as yet untitled book on wine & food is due for publication next year), a winemaker (Lady Jane Shiraz is the result of a three month winemaking stint in the McLaren Vale) - and a member of the Wine Gang. The Wine Gang is known for its completely independent and unbiased editorial on wines available on the high street - a subject on which Jane is able to speak with great authority.
Jane expressed her delight at being invited to speak at an event outside London, and with the brief she had been given – to present a range of high street wines that retail at under £10 and offer superb quality and value for money. Her belief is that consumers are very lucky in the UK, such is the expertise and purchasing power of UK buyers and the breadth of wines available. Her choices would derive mainly from France and Australia – two countries that offer outstanding rapport qualité-prix – and include a number of lesser known grape varieties to illustrate the diversity of style and terroir within the price bracket.
1. Philizot Champagne (Aldi), £12.99.
An unashamed crowd-pleaser at an exceptional price. Jane explained that Aldi’s policy is to buy up limited parcels of wine, so there is no guarantee of continuity of supply (when it’s gone it’s gone), but this wine ticks all the boxes as long as it remains in stock. Equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, it combines toasty, biscuit flavours with good weight and body, refreshing apple and citrus flavours and vibrant fizz. It is impossible to find real Champagne for under £10, but this example is still an absolute bargain - ideal for the price-conscious party-giver.
2. De Bortoli King Valley Vermentino 2012 (Asda), £9.99.12.5% ABV.
From the Yarra Valley in Victoria, Australia’s most exciting wine-producing state, Vermentino originates in Sardinia and manages to retain its freshness in hot climates. This is a very fragrant and spicy wine, with a steely, white pepper character. Refreshing and pithy, with a grippy texture and a rich fullness on the palate, it still remains quite delicate in style. Recommended as an ideal partner for fish and salad with mint.
3. Ulmen Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Chile (M&S), £5.99.13% ABV.
Chile has long been known for its value for money wines, but the Chilean wine industry has become increasingly sophisticated and is now at the vanguard of experimental wine production. This Sauvignon Blanc is from Chile’s central valley rather that the cool climate region of Casablanca that is best known for white wines, or the newer region of Leyda. The nose doesn’t display typical varietal aromas, but the palate exhibits lively citrus flavours, richness and a distinct herbal ‘lift’. Clean and refreshing, it lacks complexity but is nevertheless a good ‘quaffer’ and good value for the price.
4. Semeli Feast Moschofilero 2012, Greece (Oddbins), £8.50.11.5% ABV
It was Oddbins buyer Steve Daniel who originally championed Greek wines in the UK back in the good old Seagram days. This wine is from the mountainous Pelepponese region where high altitude and cooling coastal influences produce a very aromatic, slightly musky wine with attractive floral characters (rose petals), grapefruit and lychee flavours and a chewy texture on the palate. Lees ageing adds complexity. This is a good example of a Greek wine that can travel, being both original and unusual - and a superb choice for the dry white drinker seeking something a bit different. Steve Daniel would definitely approve!
5. Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling 2012 (Co-op), £9.99.12.5% ABV
A ‘textbook’ Riesling with intense lime character and a hint of kerosene from one of the highest vineyards in the Clare Valley at 500m above sea level. Its cool climate freshness and acidity combine with vibrant citrus characters and a certain oiliness, which, together with its long and complex finish suggest longevity. Very fine.
6. Puy de Dôme Pinot Noir 2011 (Majestic), £11.99 - down to £8.99 when you buy two bottles.14% ABV
A cool climate Pinot Noir from the Auvergne, made by a large cooperative which is owned by the largest seed manufacturer in France. Very earthy on the nose, with aromas of redcurrants, raspberries and cherries, the wine has a certain freshness and spicy graphite character. Fermentation and a year’s maturation in stainless steel imparts a certain softness and purity of fruit. (Unfortunately the samples poured at our table had some cardboardy aromas that masked the fruit – we assumed this was down to a faulty bottle).
7. Winemaker’s Selection Tuscan Red 2011 (Sainsbury), £6.99.13% ABV.
Sainsbury’s Winemaker’s Selection range is a step up from the Taste the Difference range, designed to showcase ‘classics’ of particular wine styles and give customers confidence in their choice. This blend of 80% Sangiovese with 15% Camarolo and 5% Syrah shows intense, crunchy black cherry fruit character and dense spice, with a freshness and distinct warmth to the palate. It cannot carry the ‘Chianti’ appellation because the addition of a small percentage of Syrah contravenes DOCG regulations, hence the generic name. It would make an ideal accompaniment to game dishes – especially wild boar.
8. Etna Rosso (M&S), £9.99.13% ABV.
Made from two native grape varieties, Novello Mascalese (80%) and Novello Cappuccio (20%), with a distinct aroma and floral character. Light in colour and soft in texture, this is a distinctly feminine wine, with a delightful array of red berry fruit flavours, a hint of spicy truffle and supple tannins. An interesting alternative to Pinot Noir – at a very reasonable price. A big hit with members, and a tie for first choice of the evening (with the Semeli Feast Moschofilero).
9. Finest Douro 2011 (Tesco), £7.99.13% ABV.
The Douro is obviously the home of Port wine, but is also considered to be a serious light wine market these days – and this is a serious wine. Made from a blend of thick-skinned grapes (30% Touriga Nacional – the best-known Port Wine variety – with 50% Touriga Francesa and 30% Tinta Roriz or Tempranillo), this is very classic, with full-on, dense, dark, ripe fruit, liquorice, spice and dry, pronounced tannins. It is definitely a food wine, with good depth of flavour and a long, spicy finish.
10. Finest Catalanes Grenache 2012 (Tesco), £6.9913.5% ABV
Grenache is a very important grape variety in the south of France - mostly to be found in blended wines. This unusual single-varietal old vines Grenache is ripe, juicy and concentrated with lively plum and black cherry flavours, a touch of leather, a hint of wild herbs and distinct tannins. Possibly a touch confected, it still has a good depth of flavour and fine balance.
11. Gigondas 2012 (Aldi), £9.99.14.5% ABV
From Aldi’s ‘Exquisite’ range, this wine represents exceptional value for money. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from the southern Rhône it has huge depth of flavour and serious tannins (serious alcohol too!) and delivers punchy dark fruits and spice in abundance. Another big favourite with members, and probably the greatest bargain of the evening. (N.B. this wine was £7.99 at the time of the Tasting but has since gone up in price to £9.99).
12. Solera Jerezana Dry Amontillado, Lustau (Waitrose), £9.75. 19% ABV
Sherry is currently going through a revolution – a kind of ‘retro cool’ period – in the UK, and rightly so. Not only is it very versatile and fantastic with food, it also represents superb value for money. Waitrose leads the high street with its range of sherries, and this delightful Amontillado is a rich, full, nutty classic with a marmalade and almond character and a deliciously dry tang that makes it perfect as an aperitif, served well-chilled, or as an accompaniment to scrambled egg with truffle shavings or any dish with similar earthy flavours. This is made from 100% Palomino Fino and spends an average of 10 years in the solera system.
Members applauded Jane warmly for a most interesting and enjoyable Tasting. Now that many of the high street wine merchants have disappeared and the supermarket has replaced the off-licence, we are becoming used to buying our wines at the same time as our groceries. But, as Jane illustrated so expertly in her journey around the high street, choices don’t have to limited and boring. Majestic and Oddbins may be the only multiple specialists still around, but it is reassuring to know in these straitened time that they, and the supermarkets, are still offering plenty of exciting wines at everyday, affordable prices.
CEB/31.10.13.